Is there a conversion chart
for Appleton wool to DMC, Anchor or Paterna ? Unfortunately
there are not as many shades in the these ranges as there are
in the Appleton wools. As a result, for the majority of our
designs, it is not possible to give general conversions from
Appleton to another range as one simply runs out of colours.
However, in the revised edition of William
Morris Needlepoint Beth has worked out Appleton to DMC conversions
for all the designs in the book.
Where can I find a copy of
the William Morris Needlepoint book ?
Can I buy a charted version
of a design, not a printed canvas ?
We are delighted to say that William Morris Needlepoint has
been updated and reprinted.
It now contains one extra design Artichoke 3 to go with the
other two Artichokes. There are also some new historical reference
pictures, as well as a conversion table for each design so that
they may also be stitched in DMC stranded cottons (or floss).
Victorian Needlepoint has been renamed Arts and Crafts Needlepoint-
it has the same designs, but much improved charts.
The paperback version will be launched in July 2009 with another
As a general rule, our kits are only sold in printed form. However
some of our designs are available as charts in Beth Russell's
three books and we can frequently provide the materials (wool,
instructions, canvas, needle, chart) needed for a charted version
This can sometimes take a little while as we do not always have
the blank canvas in stock. The cost of this would be the same
as for a printed version.
Please note that not all
of the designs in our range have been charted (in particular,
the Greenery series and the Compton Rug do not exist in charted
form). Please contact us before ordering.
Can I buy just the chart
of a design ?
No, sadly we do not sell just the charts, only charted kits.
You can find charts for many of the designs in Beth's books.
Click here for a list.
Why doesn't my chart match
my printed canvas ?
Due to the way our canvas is woven, it is liable to stretch
very slightly during the printing process. Whilst this effect
is not generally noticeable on most designs, it can mean that
charts and printed kits do not precisely match.
I want to extend the
background. How much wool do I need ?
In order to calculate the number of hanks of background wool
you need to cover an area, do the following:
First calculate the total area of your intended enlarged finished
design. Simply do this by multiplying the desired new width
by the new length (preferably in inches).
Next, work out the area of the standard design by multiplying
the width and length that we give in the instructions/description
of the kit.
Then subtract one from the other to give you the the total
extra area that needs to be covered.
Divide the remaining figure by 36. This gives you the number
of extra hanks of wool that you will need.
On average, a hank covers an area 6 inches by 6 inches or 36
sq inches. Each person varies in their use of wool and you can
always calculate out your own consumption as you work. However
36 sq inches a hank is a good rule of thumb.
You can order extra hanks by using the appropriate part of our
order form. Click on 'How to Order', fill in your details and
then get to the price list by clicking 'Place an Order'. The Wool
part of the order form is right at the end just above the 'Totals'
Please make sure you specify Crewel (thinner 2ply) or Tapestry
You show an old table
frame in two of your books. Where can I buy it ?
The frame in question is an antique. We did after much trouble
get it copied but the carpenter has since retired and sadly
we have none left. All attempts to find another supplier have
so far proved either too complicated or too expensive.
When should I use a frame ?
The use of a frame is very much a matter
of personal preference. The advantages are that it is easier
to get an even tension with a frame and you can use both hands,
so probably stitch faster and more evenly. It is perhaps also
easier to keep the work in shape (however you will almost certainly
need to stretch it in any case).
The disadvantages are the bore of attaching the canvas to the
frame (although we do now sell an Easy Frame which
allows you to attach the canvas without having to sew it in
place), the work is less easily transported as you can't roll
it up and stick it in a bag and, with larger pieces, you will
need to have a larger space to work in.
Most professional embroiderers however, will use a frame.
What size frame do I need ?
The flat canvas (including the plain canvas around the design)
when measured across the width, gives you the size of the frame
that you need. The frame is measured by the length of the tapes
on the rollers or in the case of the Easy Frame the
length of the space between the two side bars.
To get a good tension it is important that the edges are not
hemmed. The length of the canvas may be rolled around the rollers
so that it is possible to reach the centre of the canvas when
stitching. It is re-rolled when that part is stitched.
For very large pieces such as rugs it is possible to pin the
part of the rug that you are working on over a smaller frame
and in this case just roll the canvas out of the way to work.
You'll need to move the work as you require. This means you
do not have to have a very large frame set up. Naturally you
cannot create a good tension by this method but you can work
with both hands
You can contact us to learn more about
the frames we offer.